sevilla spain

While Spain is a made up of fifty provinces that vary greatly from culture to geography, what first comes to mind for many are flamenco music, bullfighting and tapas when thinking of this Southern European country: all of which are quintessentially Andalusia.  As the Southernmost province of Spain, it stretches across the entire lower portion of the country and down to the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea, which are divided by the Straight of Gibraltar.

In the year 711, Moors from Northern Africa conquered the Iberian peninsula, renaming it Al-Andalus, which is where the name Andalusia is derived.  As a result of Moorish rule lasting until 1492, Southern Spain is filled with Islamic architecture including riad gardens, extensive tilework, arabesque designs, and water sources.  One of Seville’s most famous sites is La Giralda, a square minaret tower attached to the cathedral that has a similar design to the famous Koutoubia minaret in Marrakech.

In addition to the unique architecture, the region is also defined by music introduced by a different group, the Romani gypsies or gitanos.  Originating in Southern Spain, flamenco music is an art form that combines folkloric lyrics with quick and spirited guitar rhythms along with passionate and vibrant dancing.  Flamenco is a group effort with guitar players and dancers shouting out encouraging words to the singers and dancers.  Meanwhile dancers play castanets and display sophisticated footwork in their movements, hitting the floor powerfully with their heels.  All throughout Southern Spain, you can visit a tablao to enjoy an authentic flamenco performance (we’ve added a suggestion below).

La Giralda & Cathedral of Seville

Dancing las Sevillanas​

A popular partner dance that has similarities to flamenco is the Sevillanas.  While it was originally danced during April feria, an annual festival, as a courting ritual, it is now common at any get-together including parties and weddings.  The man and woman do a series of passes and turns with their arms moving throughout.  They come very close to each other but never actually touch until the end when the man puts his arms around her waist.  It is common in the evening to see locals dancing the Sevillanas in bars, especially in the Triana district which was historically the gypsy quarter.

Spaniards love good food and sharing it with friends and family, which shows in their lifestyle.  Since staying up later is common for all ages, the work day begins around 9:00 AM.  Some people eat something small before work, but it is common for Spaniards to take a break around 10 for a mid-morning breakfast like tostadas, churros con chocolate and cafe con leche.

Tostadas are toasted bread slices with toppings like jam with butter, Manchego cheese, and the most popular Serrano ham with tomato concassé and olive oil.  These split sandwiches that are served on rustic white bread are simple yet delicious and are best eaten with a cafe con leche, Spanish coffee with cream.

Another popular midmorning treat are churros con chocolate.  Unlike the star-shaped dough strips in Mexico, Spanish churros are smoother and fried in a huge circle before being broken off into pieces and served with thick hot chocolate.  This isn’t like the winter beverage that we are used to in the states, but rather a denser, richer chocolate for dipping.      

TOSTADAS

Breakfast in Spain tends to be lighter.  Tostadas, or toasts, with coffee and orange juice is the most popular.  Spanish bread is toasted, then topped with a variety of ingredients including tomato and olive oil, serrano ham, manchego cheese, butter and jam, or egg and potato tortilla.  

CHURROS CON CHOCOLATE

When I studied in Spain, I lived for the mornings when the churro truck near my school would be open.  I would take a mid-morning break to feast on these broken sticks of fried dough, dipped in the most rich, velvety chocolate sauce imaginable.

GAZPACHO & OLIVES

Chilled tomato soup made with cucumbers, green peppers, garlic and olive oil & locally grown olives

SANGRIA & JAMON IBERICO

Serrano or Iberian ham is the most expensive ham in the world because it comes from Duroc pigs, which are know for their prized fat marbling and deep rich taste.  Once a ham is salted, it will hang to dry for 12-18 months to cure.

Around 2:00 is lunch, which is the largest meal of the day.  Many businesses shut down for a few hours so that employees may go home and eat with their family or have a leisurely meal with friends.  Seville is a warm city and gets incredibly hot during the summer, so this was traditionally a time for siestas, or naps, to take a break from the scorching midday sun. 

Since meals in Spain are later, dinner is no exception.  Eating around ten o’clock in the evening is not abnormal, though it is a lighter meal.  Many Spaniards take to the streets to meet friends for tapas – small, sharable appetizers for which the Southern portion of the country is known.  Derived from the verb tapar, which means to cover, bar owners used to serve wine glasses covered with a small plate of a few olives or a small snack to keep the bugs out.  The tradition developed into an entire late night, culinary culture for Andalusians and defines the food of Southern Spain.  Some of my favorite are ham croquettes, gazpacho (see our blog below for the recipe), garlic potato salad, garlic shrimp, and garbanzos with spinach.  Favorite tapas beverages include wine, beer, sangria, tinto de verano (in the summer months), gin and tonic, and vermouth.

Read the inspiration behind our Watermelon Gazpacho recipe

experiences

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A trip to Andalucia is not complete without experiencing the magic of Flamenco.  I have been to a few different tablaos (shows) in Seville, but Los Gallos is my favorite.  The room is smaller than many, creating a more intimate experience to hear and see the moving stories and rich culture of flamenco through singing and dancing.

Head inside Seville’s historic Triana Market (Mercado de Triana) to learn tips and tricks you can’t get from videos at this hands-on cooking class. After exploring the vibrant market, nibble on olives and Sangria as you help your chef prepare a 3-course meal of Spanish signatures, from paella to Seville specialties such as spinach and chickpea tapa. Finally, feast on the fruits of your labors, with a drink or two.
  • Prepare and eat a delicious 3-course Spanish lunch with a local chef. 
  • Enjoy drinks including Sangria and up to two glasses of wine or beer. 
  • Learn about local specialties and farming practices on a Triana Market tour
  • Take home written recipes to capture what you’ve learned
Experience Seville’s tapas and bar culture by foot on this group walking tour. In the company of your guide, learn about Seville’s history and food culture while tasting a variety of traditional tapas and four local wines. Visit bars and local hangouts and get to know the city through its food.
  • Sample local tapas and four wines
  • Learn about Seville’s food culture from your guide
  • Explore Seville on foot
  • Visit local bars and hangouts

places to visit

This apartment is the perfect location downtown.  It is nestled between the river and Constitution Avenue, which is the major street running in front of the cathedral, which is the center of Seville.  It is an easy walk to the Tower of Gold (Torre del Oro) along the Guadalquivir River, the Bullfighting Arena, the Indian archives building, the Jewish quarter, bars and restaurants, and the main shopping street, Calle Sierpes.